EGYPT
17.12.07 - Left quarry early, drove for a couple of hours until warmer then stopped in a lay-by to cook breakfast. Men here stare even more than in Tunisia and Libya, got so fed up I put my fleece hat on, this seemed to make it a little better, however I did get very hot! Stopped about 20km before Cairo at Dandy’s Mega mall with the hopes of free wifi in McDonalds, the access was limited, we could only get on google and facebook, however it was worth the stop, you can’t beat a good McD!! Found camp close to the pyramids, the camp needs a bit of TLC but bearable. Met a very nice Belgium couple Gaston and Hilda, driving a huge 9 ton 4 wheel drive Mercedes camper. It is nice to have a proper conversation at last, it is surprising how much you miss talking to other people. It is also very nice to be back in the luxury of our tent again.
18.12.07 - Left camp early to get a taxi into Cairo to sort out the Sudan and Ethiopian visas. First stop the British Embassy to get our introduction letter. This was no problem and cost EP325, walked round the corner to Sudan embassy only to be told it was a 5 day Muslim holiday and to come back on Sunday, this was the same for the Ethiopian embassy, so as we were here decided to go to the Egyptian Museum. We left there and found an internet café, then ended up in KFC for a late lunch. Then our troubles really began, found a taxi told him Salma motel camping in Giza, he said yes fine no problem, we agreed a price and got in. Almost straight away he started asking people for directions even though we were still in Cairo and no where near. Then he stops altogether, says ‘5 mins’ and climbs over into the passenger side to get out, he opens the boot (which doesn’t actually close and bobs up every time we went over a bump) next thing we know we are being jacked up so he can change his tire. That done he drives a bit further the passenger door flying open as he goes round a corner, he then stops again to have air put in the new tire. We get to Giza, not too far we think from our camp, only for him to ask another taxi driver for directions who tells him Salma is in Cairo not Giza. We tell him this is wrong but he turns around and drives us back into Cairo and stops outside Salma Hotel. By now we have been in the taxi for about an hour, we tell him again we want Giza, he then says we must pay EP200 to go back, Troy argued that it was his mistake and we will only pay the EP50 as agreed. The taxi driver tries to haggle as he takes us back to Giza, but Troy told him straight either EP50 to Giza or we get out and he gets nothing. We got back to the main road near the camp, and we recognised the road to turn down, he starts driving down what we thought was the right road and then suddenly decides it can’t be there and turns around much to our protesting. He stops again to ask directions and by now we have had enough, so we got out the taxi in the dark to try and find our own way, paying the driver only what we had agreed in the first place. Walked for about 3km asking people on the way but no one knew of the camp. We started to recognise more and more things and knew we must be close, eventually a man and his family pass us on a Donkey and trap and indicated we could have a lift. We hopped on much to the amusement of everyone around even one Egyptian who took our picture, this lightened our mood considerably and we enjoyed our ride. Suddenly we saw the sign for camping so thanked the man and jumped off. Walked up the lane and were so glad to see our Land Rover. Chatted the night away with Gaston and Hilda, and planned our trip to the pyramids tomorrow which will hopefully be less eventful than today!!
19.12.07 - Arranged for a car to pick us up and take us to the pyramids after the fiasco with the taxis, same price but much nicer and a man who seems to know his way around everywhere. So off to the pyramids, what an awesome sight. Went for a 2 and a half hour walk into the desert hills overlooking the pyramids, then down to the sphinx to take in our last view of what can only be described again as awesome. We arranged to meet the driver outside pizza hut, couldn’t resist so had a pizza with a grand view of the pyramids. As it is festival time the street was full of families and children, enjoying what was like a carnival atmosphere. While waiting for our car, think we amused the children because they kept coming to talk to us, then going away laughing. Back to the campsite a few chores before preparing our first African fire. Sitting out the rest of the evening with Hilda and Gaston enjoying homemade soup, BBQ sausage and beer, courtesy of Hilda. Nights like this are what the trip is all about.
20.12.07 - Too much hassle to drive to Carrefour, so arranged for our man to take us there as we just had our bare ‘eat if we must’ food left. He took us to a different one than we expected, it was a huge mall with lots of different types of shops, however none including Carrefour sold alcohol. As it is still the Muslim holiday none of the small shops are selling alcohol either. Came back to an empty camp as Hilda and Gaston had left for Luxor earlier that morning. Not long after we got back it started to rain, so that put pay to our BBQ we were planning on that evening. Rain also made the evening cooler, sat inside feeling very fed up as if we did not have to wait for the visas we would also have left for Luxor today. However after the waiting for the Libyan visas in Tunisia our pace of life is slowing down and we seem to have much more patience, now knowing that nothing can be rushed!
21.12.07 - Troy had a lie in as he didn’t feel too good last night. Then the day was spent doing all the major chores we have been talking about doing for last couple of weeks, but putting off because they are grubby and dirty. Troy decided to change the bulbs in the headlights to brighter ones, changed the position of all front lights as were pointing in wrong directions. Checking oil everywhere and more mundane jobs. At least the weather was better today so we had our BBQ, whilst listening to Nile FM who were playing Christmas songs. Troy managed to buy some beers in the bar here, but nothing for me as they only sell beer and nothing else. What kind of a bar is that?!! The BBQ was however very pleasant just the two of us.
22.12.07 - Woke to find we had new ‘neighbours’ another Belgium couple Frederik & Josephine (thanks for the whiskey), it turns out they arrived not long after we had gone to bed (but us being ever vigilant didn’t hear a sound and were sound asleep!!) Chatted to them for a while, found out they had gone down the west coast of Africa, then to Asia including Japan and came back through Jordan. They originally set off for a year and now a year and a half in they are planning another 6 months around Africa. Troy got the camps wifi working, hence the update. Didn’t do much else apart from sunbathing, much to the local’s astonishment who are still walking round in thick coats and gloves. Early to bed as an early start in the morning.
23.12.07 - Our driver picked us up at 8am, our intention was to go to the Ethiopian Embassy first to see if we could get the visa today instead of waiting 24 hours which is how long in normally takes. Our plan worked, he bought our sob story about having had to wait 5 days already due to the holiday and us needing to get to Luxor, and he did our visas on the spot. Very pleased with ourselves we left for the Sudan Embassy to get the ‘1 hour’ Sudanese visas. It is our guess that they have been taking lessons from Libya, as now they are unable to issue visas same day and have to send it to Khartoum and wait. We were told to come back in 5 days, behind us in the queue was another couple a New Zealand girl who was told 5 days and an Australian guy who was told 7 days. As their Egyptian visas are close to running out, they decided they would probably fly to Ethiopia instead. We also met an American couple who have been waiting 13 days already with no luck. We were all of the understanding that it would only take a couple of hours. We contemplated what to do next and decided to drive to Luxor anyway for Christmas and to see the sights, then take a slow drive back up through the white desert which is meant to be beautiful. We are not going to even think about the visa for the next week or so. So here we sit ¾ of the way to Luxor, a big chilli in our belly contemplating another bush camp.
24.12.07 - Up with the sun and back on our way to Luxor. We reached Safaga at 7.50am and were told the convoy did not go until 10am. We drove to the waiting point, where they try and fleece you with knickknacks and souvenirs. Like lambs to the slaughter the coaches pulled in and the tourists were directed to the stalls. Suddenly at 9am the convoy started, we drove under half way before we were all stopped again, by toilets, a coffee shop and more souvenir stalls. Again all the tourists piled off the coaches to browse exactly the same tat as before. We had to wait for an hour before we were finally under way again much to our annoyance. As we reached Qena, all the roads were closed off for the convoy and we thundered through all the way to Luxor. It was funny to see cars and coaches overtaking each other in the convoy, just so they could get there seconds earlier (I guess it is in their blood). Reached Rezeiky camp just after lunch, where we were re-united with Hilda and Gaston. We were welcomed into the camp, we a nice cup of mint tea, and that night had a very nice dinner in the restaurant, with a German named Frank and Gaston. It was nice to have some wine at last, so off to bed with rosy cheeks!
25.12.07 - Christmas Day. We arranged to go to the Valley of the Kings, the Queens, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon, and had a very nice day seeing the sites. Got back to camp and set about making our Christmas dinner. Had bought a chicken which we cooked in the dutch oven, very unsure how it would come out as had no fire and had to sit it on the diesel cooker. But one fine chicken later (and no death in the morning!), roast potatoes, cabbage, peas and the only wine available we sat down for a late candle lit (lamp!) dinner to the tunes of ‘I wish it could be Christmas everyday’, at which point an Australian lady in an overland group gave me their spare Christmas hat. Very different type of Christmas, but very enjoyable. Christmas alfresco!
26.12.07 - Boxing Day. Lazy start to the day, walked to the Karnak Temple, very spectacular the immense size of the columns and buildings was definitely very impressive. Strolled back to the camp to have cold chicken sandwiches for lunch. Went for a walk into town in the afternoon to the Egyptian market, it is an experience you really need to see on foot, with your hands tightly clasped on your valuables! But really enjoying the atmosphere, narrow streets crowded with people and stalls of everyday goods. Hilda haggled for some garlic and ended up with half a kilo of it for 50p! Back to a traditional Boxing Day lunch we were invited for ‘Belgium fries’ by Hilda. Sat and had a very enjoyable meal with them, ate more than we have since we left home. Then it was over to have a look at the entertainment, they had a belly dancer and snake charmer, Troy ended up having a cobra wrapped around his neck. With rosy cheeks again and a full belly it was off to bed.
27.12.07 - Said goodbye to Hilda & Gaston again. Then back to the daily chores of washing and cleaning, until we got hungry then we set off to find McDonalds that we had seen signs for. Took a nice stroll back along the Nile and back to sun bathing. In the evening packed up awning etc ready to leave early tomorrow for the drive back to Cairo.
28.12.07 - Up with the lark, to get ready to join the convoy at 8am. Drove the 800km back to Cairo non stop. Decided to stop at Carrefour for takeaway and shopping, here's a tip, never go shopping, when you haven’t eaten all day, always get your takeaway first as the land rover is now full of doughnuts, sweets, crisps and cake!! Got to back to Salma campsite, arrived to a huge fire with Frank who we met in Luxor and three English guys who are heading off for a desert expedition in a discovery mk 1 and a land rover 90 in a couple of weeks. Sat down and had a good chinwag and a few beers and put the world to rights! Now what is the difference between an orb and a sphere?? Answers by email please!! The tidying of the toilets here seems to be to slap paint on everything, including the taps and floor and some new to them shower curtains. I guess they are trying in an Egyptian sort of way.
29.12.07 - Lazy day, caught up on washing and sunbathing and not much else.
30.12.07 - Got to Sudan Embassy at 8.30am to be told it does not open till 9am, however they did not mention that the visa section does not start work until 10am! Got chatting to a Dutch guy who had also put his request in a week ago, there was also a Russian and Slovenian couple who were putting their request in that day. When we were finally seen our passports were taken for a few minutes then they were handed back and we were told to come back at 2pm. This we found very annoying as we had already waited a week, but we left very happy that we were finally going to get our visa (or so we thought!) Decided to kill time in Cairo, first job to find the bottle shop, found it no problem and stocked up on wine and beer not thinking about all the hours we would then have to walk around Cairo carrying it!! Had lunch and into internet café, then walked back to Embassy for 2pm. Got inside and saw Dutch guy again who had just been told to come back in another week. So we went to the window and were told the same, we were obviously not happy and refused to leave and made a nuscence of ourselves hanging around in front the window making it difficult for anyone else to get the window, but being polite all the time and asking again how long the visa would really take. After an hour and a half they finally gave in and stamped the passports, but then still tried to say we had to come back tomorrow to collect them. Once again we refused and told them we had people waiting in Luxor for us, very begrudgingly they finally handed them over. So remember be obstinate but polite. The Dutch guy also got his visa in the end and the Russian and Slovakians also got theirs straight away. Politics!!! By the time we got back to camp it was far too late to make tracks so decided to stay another night and celebrate getting our visas with our newly acquired wine.
31.12.07 - What a mistake the wine was! I woke feeling like death vowing with those immortal words ‘never to drink again’. As a result we didn’t leave for Luxor and I spent most of the day in bed feeling very sorry for myself. The 3 English guys were off to a party of a friend of theirs who lives in Cairo, so it was just the 3 of us round the campfire struggling to stay awake till midnight. So there we were staring through the smog in the direction of the pyramids awaiting fireworks. Midnight came and went with a clink of cans between Frank and Troy and a sip of water for me the display we expected turned out to be one lonely firework which unfortunately Frank missed when he turned to chat. Fifteen minutes past 12 we were all in bed asleep.
01.01.08 - Up and away by 8.30am for the mammoth drive back to Luxor, stopping only for one quick pee. Got to the convoy point at Safaga at 2.30pm, our passports were taken for 5mins and then we were waved through without a convoy. Very pleased we drove on only getting stopped a couple of times and made it to camp just as getting dark. As we came through the gates we had a text from Gaston asking where we were as we appeared in front of them. With much fuss, Hilda went about mothering us with hugs, smiles, coffee and food. Spent the rest of the night chatting, by 9.30pm Hilda could see that we were flagging and her mothering instincts kicked in, she grabbed Gaston by the ear and dragged him into their camper so we could go to bed (whether we wanted to or not!!)
02.01.08 - Today was the day of the great shop hunt, we set off to find the biggest supermarket in town. We had the GPS co-ordinates and the compass pointing us in the right direction, off we set on foot the 1.6 miles as the crow flies towards it. As usual in Luxor being accosted by carriages, young children begging and people trying to sell you any number of things all the way. After about half a mile Gaston became a carbon copy of the donkey from Shrek, ‘are we there yet, how much further in KM!’ every 100 yards!! Eventually we found the supermarket that looks like your average Indian corner shop at home, but it was the biggest in Luxor and had a surprising amount of stuff in it, including a large lump of cow complete with furry tail. Not quite having enough bottle and scared of sitting on too many toilets we went for the corned variety! Then off to McDonalds for some real food and free wifi. Two hours later after downloading some stuff on bitorrent it was back to a good night and good chat with other overlanders also going to Aswan to catch ferry to Sudan. Janet & Chris are a very nice English couple who have been on the road for 7 months of their 2 year trip and a very nice Dutch couple Natasja & Reg who are a month into their 6 month trip. Early to bed as had to be up for 5.30 to catch the 7am convoy. Said goodbye for the last time to Gaston & Hilda who are heading north to the Sinai.
03.01.08 - Made it in time for the convoy which set off very fast leaving us in its wake with Janet & Chris behind us. Caught up to the convoy at the half way point in time to see it set off again. Went through many small villages and totally lost track of it, as we were not really concentrating we missed the sign for Aswan and ended up heading towards the red sea. Janet & Chris followed for a short while, then turned round to go the right way, assuming we had gone to see a temple or something. What we did see was tractors and sugar cane and lots of farmers going about their business, at which point we thought they looked too settled for a convoy to have passed through the tiny road, we thought it was maybe a good idea to put on the GPS and found we were going in totally the wrong direction. We turned and headed back but never did see the convoy again. Got to Aswan and went straight to the ferry booking office, only to be told to come back on Saturday. Left and headed for Adams Home campsite where Janet & Chris were already settled in wondering where we had got to. Later in the evening Natasja and Reg turned up, then it was off to see the Nubian entertainment which was supplied again for the Italians. We got up and had a dance to our first African voices and drums.
04.01.08 - Got up to a cold shower as no one staying at the campsite knew you had to turn the water heater on ourselves and as it is the ladies toilet and shower area the blokes didn’t even know it existed. Went to visit the High Dam in Aswan, which is absolutely huge. The rest of the day was spent doing our usual chores and trying to find enough food of choice to take to Sudan. Spent the evening sat around a very windy camp fire sorting out tomorrows itinerary, deciding we would travel round as a group in convoy and get it all sorted together.
05.01.08 - Got to Mr Salla’s office at 9am as requested where we met up with the Slovenian couple Jose and Silva only to be told that 4 cars were a problem and to come back in 1 hour. Off we all traipsed to an internet café to check on the Kenya situation. After an hour and a half we went back to the office only to be told Mr Salla had gone out, we hung around for a while until he phoned Janet and said he was in a meeting and for us to sort out returning our plates. So off we all went to the traffic police office (we don’t know the proper name) where you get a piece of paper which confirms you have not had an accident, you then take this to another traffic office where you hand it in with your plates and get another piece of paper which you need to get your carnet stamped. Unfortunately Egypt football team were playing in the Aswan stadium so the whole of Aswan was closing early, after a bit of begging and pleading the man who stamps the paper was made to come back to the office from the match. This all finally done we went back to Mr Salla who said everything was sorted but he could not issue our ferry tickets as the stamp man there had also gone to the football, so we were told to return at 9am tomorrow. Both had a stinking cold so was an early night.
06.01.08 - Got to Mr Salla’s office as instructed to be told our cars would be loaded on the barge today instead of tomorrow, although they still would not sail until tomorrow. We all rushed back to Adam’s home as had left much of our stuff there, everything we had planned to do that day went out of the window. We were told to be at the port to do customs by 12 but didn’t get there till about 1pm then were held up while all our cars were checked. Unfortunatly Natasja and Reg’s stun gun was found which made the officials check the rest of our cars more thoroughly. Finally we got to customs, by now Mr Salla had already left. Got down to the barge and were told we could not load our cars for at least an hour, so on the phone to Mr Salla to complain that we had rushed, he said we should load straight away. While we were waiting Troy started to take pictures until an official stopped him, however when we explained we were only taking pictures of the cars they were fine, they even took some group ones for us and from then on we were allowed to snap anything. Finally got the cars loaded about 4pm, then it was off to find a hotel. We walked out the port and discovered there was no way of getting a taxi without walking to the town nearby. However while we were debating what to do a couple of guys in a pickup arrived to drop off a washing machine, so we offered them some money to drive us back into Aswan all 8 of us in the back of the pickup, we felt like real locals!! Our first choice of hotel (which looked lovely) was booked solid, so we ended up in a far less desirable hotel with the hardest beds in the world, which funnily enough had plenty of room for all of us!!
07.01.08 - Got to the ferry port and past through customs quickly then on to the ferry to find our cabins (as we were all 1st class passengers). It was however another 8 hours before the ferry sailed, it was interesting though watching them loading the barges and ferry the way only African’s can. We had food on the ferry at 2pm which we paid a bit extra for so we had a better class of meal rather than the slop that was being dished out to the rest. The rest of the passengers were eventually let on, they came with luggage from the ordinary carryall to bed ends and 28” wide screen tv’s, the upper deck area was so full there was no way of us walking from one end to the other (you have to be very comfortable with your fellow man to travel this way). With so many people crammed on to such a small ship the toilet facilities deteriorated very fast, but with the advantage of a cabin with an outside window, we found a large coke bottle cut off at an angle came in very handy, our cabin was now en-suite!! During the evening we had to hand in our passports for them to arrange the paperwork. Chris and Reg had stocked up a little too much on beer in Aswan so they and Troy were doing their best to drink as much as they could on the ferry until they were told they were now under the jurisdiction of Sudanese customs and were not allowed, so we returned to the cabins to continue drinking and managed with slight of hand to pass beers freely between cabins. Chris was still worried about the rest of the beer in his car, but instead of keeping quiet he asked anyone and everyone including the customs man whether they thought it would be alright to smuggle the beer into Sudan, the responses he got were quite favourable!!
08.01.08 - After a surprisingly comfortable night, we were up for breakfast and sorting out our paperwork. Once we had docked in Wadi Halfa, a man came aboard who said he would sort out our carnet, he took one of the pages and left, then we had our police interview, we all said we were going to Khartoum to stay in the Hilton Hotel, this seemed to satisfy them, they returned our passports and we were free to leave. Outside it was a quick trip into town which cost us an extortionate 5SP pp which we negotiated down to 4SP which was still far too much. Then we arrived at the Deffintoad Hotel which is classed as the best hotel in town, we did not believe this until we checked out the Nile hotel down the road, we soon realised that having the bare concrete floor did set it apart from the rest. So at the costly price of 7SP pppn we checked in, it’s amazing to think we paid money to stay in what can only be described as a 19th century prison cell for the night. Then it was over to the local restaurant, where we had a grand tour of the kitchen to check out what food was edible. Spent the evening sat outside on the hotel steps chatting to other travellers, drinking sweet tea. It appears the only reason Wadi Halfa is there is for the 2 days when the ferry arrives and leaves so there is little else to do there.
Final thoughts - The pyramids wow, shame they are being eaten away by the worst smog we have ever experienced. It’s a good job they have their history and the Nile for without that they would have little else. Go there for the history but don’t expect to immerse yourself in the culture. Smarmy people who won’t lift a hand to help unless there is a backsheesh attached. Enjoyed our time although cannot see us ever going back. Also did not have one night where I wasn’t woken up at some stupid hour by a mosque, so take earplugs!!
