SUDAN

09.01.08 -   Up early to get our registration done, which everyone has to do within 3 days of arriving, we had a man help us with it but it still seemed to take a couple of hours.  We were told the cars should arrive about lunch time, so off went the drivers to collect the cars while Chris, Natasja and I sat on the top of the hill to await their return. After a few hours we noticed they were back but without the cars.  When they got to the ferry port in the 3SP taxi ride back, which was so overloaded that Troy and Reg had to hang off the back standing on the step, the barge had arrived but no one was there to unload it, they tried going down to the cars but were stopped and told to come back in an hour.  So with that they went to complete the rest of the paperwork for the carnet, Troy and Reg then managed to get to the cars by walking straight past the guards and noticed that the unloading of the barge had still not been started and the barge was still 3 feet below the level which the cars could be driven off.  So they decided to go back to town and return at 6pm.  5pm came and a guy came and said we had to get the cars off today as tomorrow was a holiday, so once again it was back down to the dock.  But as in Africa the unloading still hadn’t been started, but not wanting to wait 2 days, we insisted they be unloaded there and then, improvising with pallets, cement bags and tarpaulins we fashioned a ramp and managed to get 3 of the cars off.  However when it came to the 4^th car, the captain of the barge said we needed to pay baksheesh, to which we flatly refused.  After much debate and arguing the port official arrived and said the last car couldn’t come off because it was impossible to manoeuvre the barge because other barges were in the way.  We argued that they were going to do it but wanted money, the man that was dealing with our carnet rang up the manager of the Nile shipping co, who turned up and went absolutely ballistic at the captain for demanding money, he demanded a signed letter from us with our passport details stating that the captain had asked us for baksheesh.  With that we fashioned a ramp ourselves whilst the barge miraculously got positioned on the jetty, the 4^th car came off and we had freedom.  An argument then ensued over the service charge for the customs, we paid what we thought we should and left town.  We bush camped about 6km out, where the new road ended and the tracks started.  It appears that telling anyone who will listen that you have a car full of alcohol makes no difference, thanks to Chris we went to bed happy after having beer and vodka.

10.01.08 - Off we set across the dunes to find the road, eventually after half an hour of backtracking we finally got going.  The road can only be described as a ‘green laners’ dream, rocky sandy and undulating in all directions, some stretches heavily corrugated for several miles at a time.  The idea of travelling in convoy was because of its remoteness and the ability to help each other.  After a days driving and whilst starting to look for a bush camp the Dutch being the last in the convoy failed to arrive, when we asked José and Silva when the last time they had seen them was they had no idea (so much for looking out for one another!), the last place we stopped to discuss the road was about 50km back but on this road that meant 2 hours driving.  Janet & Chris had blown a shock and the Slovenians engine management system had gone haywire so it was left to us to go off and look for them.  We drove for over an hour, where we flagged down a passing truck to ask if they had seen anyone on the road, they produced a letter from their pocket from the Dutch saying they had broken down and gave their GPS coordinates, we were only about 15 mins away by then, when we reached them we found the look of relief on their faces made the journey worth while.   We had a look at their wheel and discovered that all the bolts had sheered off and there was no way of a quick fix.  It was starting to get dark so it was out with the warning triangles and stones blocking the road around us where we had to set up camp for the night.  Two truck buses full of people stopped every one of them trying to help, they managed to get the snapped studs out but then discovered that they had none to fit in the spares they had for their truck, telling us that we could get some in Abri, which was 50km ahead.  A few other people passed including a priest who said he would send a mechanic out to us from Abri.  So 11pm we gave up waiting for the mechanic, jacked up with stones and bottle jacks we got the axle off the road and onto axle stands so Natasja & Reg could sleep in the car that night, got to bed about midnight. 

11.01.08 - 9am no mechanic had arrived so we set off to Abri to find the bits to repair ourselves leaving Natasja and Reg behind.  On the way we met up with Janet & Chris and Jose & Silva and drove on to Abri.  We tracked down the bolts only to have a man come into the parts shop and tell us that the manager of the agricultural bank had got the message from the priest and sent a mechanic with parts that morning.  So we drove to the crossroads in the middle of town to wait for Natasja & Reg to arrive.  Darkness came, the head of the town came out with tea and dates and invited us to stay in his home, which we declined politely saying we wanted to stay and wait for our friends.  Just as we were tucking into a curry and chocolate cake, lights appeared in the distance, with a toot of a horn and hugs and kisses all round we were reunited.

12.01.08 - Drove into Abri again to return the unused parts and pay for the repairs, we tracked down the man from the bank, but he insisted that he would take no money for the mechanic or parts and wanted to take us for breakfast, we explained we had already lost so much time and needed to get going, so he bought us Pepsi’s and bottled water instead.  He wished to meet the rest of our party so after half an hour of handshaking and photos and a few more groceries from the market we were off again on the road, we stopped just before Delgo and bush camped in a beautiful spot under palm trees next to the Nile.  A strip wash, nice camp fire and then to bed.   

13.01.08 - In dribs and drabs we left the camp, we were last to pack and leave but being the only car without a problem we caught up with them very quickly.  Met up for lunch, where we decided we would drive on ahead and wait for them when we got to Argo.  Half way there the road split, we decided to take the left hand fork thinking it was the most obvious route, Natasja and Reg had the same idea and arrived in Argo only half an hour after us.  However the other two vehicles took the right hand fork which took them to a huge drainage ditch which they were unable to cross so had to go all the way round.  This turned out to be a good thing for us, as whilst waiting for them and negotiating the price of a Pepsi we noticed water leaking from the car.  It turned out to be the top hose being brand new but a patent part which was about 20mm bigger than the original had rubbed against a bracket causing a hole right the way through.  Luckily it appeared to have only just pierced and also luckily we had kept the original hoses as spares so 5 minutes later and half a litre of water we were on the road again.  The village seemed to stretch along the Nile road for at least 15km, until finally we found a place far enough away to set up camp.  But as in Africa whilst Troy was spending some time with his shovel he ended up waving to a man passing by on his donkey!!

14.01.08 - Another 30km of dirt road and we were finally on tarmac which will in a couple of years stretch all the way from Wadi Halfa to Ethiopia, totally spoiling the appeal of Sudan.  Made it to Karima late afternoon, went to the budget hotel in the hopes of getting a shower, however they had no water.  Next stop the very expensive Italian hotel, they told us the rooms were US$250 pn and that they were full anyway, both these things we think were a lie as they just didn’t want 8 very smelly people mixing with their tourists.    Left without a shower and set up camp in the shadow of the Holy Mountain and pyramids.

15.01.08 - Jose and Silva left us to do their own thing as we are now on tarmac, said our goodbyes and the rest of us set off towards Atbara.  Us and the Dutch decided to take a detour to see the fossilised forest, which on a scale of 0 to 10 comes in at a very lowly 1, but we did pass some nice places to bush camp, much better than where we had spent the night before.  Janet & Chris went on ahead and we arranged to meet them for lunch if we had not caught up with them already.  Made pretty good time until Janet & Chris’s oil light came on, they topped up with a litre and a half of oil but after 100km the light was on again so we knew there was going to be a problem more oil and a lunge for Atbara.  Took the ferry across and limped to the Nile hotel to a nice hot shower, grin and bear it rooms but with BBC world on the TV.  Managed to negotiate breakfast in with the price of the room, but it was still very expensive for what you are getting. 

16.01.08 - Got a mechanic out, it looks like Janet & Chris will be staying for a few days getting their van repaired. So we went to the bank to change money as we had nothing even before we had to pay for the hotel, then we set off with Natasja & Reg towards Khartoum.  We stopped at the pyramids in Meroe, quite nice situated in the desert just off the main road although obviously not on the same scale as Egypt.  We then decided to drive along a piste to the Musawwrat temple where we set up camp for the night.  This turned out to be quite a busy spot for wildlife, one minute we were surrounded by a herd of goats the next we saw 2 eyes in the darkness running towards us, with mass hysteria and panic Reg jumped into his cab as the baby fox emerged!!  Reg later explained it was rabies and disease that frightened him not the baby fox, however we have our doubts!!

17.01.08 - Whilst having breakfast and packing up we had the usual hoard of onlookers turn up who seemed to appear out of nowhere all trying to scrounge one thing or another.  Drove along another piste to the Naqa temple and then left by a very good piste. Both temples are very small and not worth the US$10pp fee so try not to pay it, we didn’t.  Reached Khartoum drove to the Blue Nile Sailing club to look around, however after looking at the facilities of 1 cold shower and no real camping area we decided to try the National Camping instead.  Arrived at National Camping where they have a decent area to camp, the toilets are clean and we are assured the showers are warm but are yet to try.

18.01.08 - Today was all about cleaning it is amazing just how far the dust travels into the vehicle and everything, seeming to get into even sealed places.  The temperature now has suddenly leapt right up, without realising whilst cleaning Troy ended up with burnt shoulders and neck and I managed to burn the backs of my legs.  We also managed a nice shower, it was felt wonderful to be clean again.  In the evening we went to watch the whirling dervishes, this is a local custom where people dance around in a grave yard expressing their unity no matter what their sect, which is marked by the colours they wear.  This involves a small market, a large body of people and a small circle with chanting people inside.  After a quick look round, we sat on the bonnet of the Land Rover to wait for Natasja & Reg, a couple of locals then came over to chat to us and before long we had an audience that could rival the whirling dervishes.  We had a great time chatting to many different people about everything from global warming, economics but avoiding politics.  Many of the people we spoke to just wanted to practice their English although it was already very good, we were then invited to tea which Troy readily accepted.  We ended up staying there far longer we had originally intended, so popped into Steers for burger and chips for a very late dinner on the way back to camp.    

19.01.08 - With everything else clean we thought we would take our clothes to the laundry for a proper wash, however they wanted to charge an extortionate amount per item and as we had so much we estimated it would cost us 170SP which is far too much to spend on washing.  So it was back to the camp to start our mountain of washing by hand.  Later that afternoon Janet & Chris arrived from Atbara with their car all fixed.  We all went out that evening for a meal as due to the heat of the day no one could muster up any energy to cook.  The restaurant came out with enough food to feed about 20 people, so what we couldn’t eat we got them to box up.

20.01.08 - Troy set about servicing the Land Rover today, while I continued with the last of the washing.  Later when all chores finished we walked to the internet café to catch up on our emails.  Chris made us a lovely curry for tea with the leftovers from the restaurant, then it was early to bed, it is amazing how tired the heat can make you feel.

21 to 23.01.08 - The last 3 days were spent catching up on the internet, shopping and finding somewhere to get some dollars, due to the US embargo no cash machine we found would accept our visa cards, we eventually found the Byblos Bank where the manager will give you dollars against your visa card.  We also went to the Kenyan Embassy to obtain our visas and find out information on the current situation (of course they said everything is fine and we would have no problems).  Spent nearly a whole day in the Toyota garage while Reg & Natasja got the wheel problem on their car sorted and Chris & Janet had a few last things done on theirs, we only thought it would be a quick trip with them but ended up in there for 5 hours.  We arrived back to camp one day to find that Chris & Janet had managed to get themselves arrested, they stopped to take a picture of where the Blue and White Niles meet not realising they were stopped in front of a palace.  This is the reason that Brits have such a bad reputation abroad!!

24.01.08 - Time to move on, we packed up to leave Khartoum.  We first stopped at a café where Reg & Natasja bought us all breakfast, which was the closest thing to an English breakfast we have had in a while.  Then it was back on the road towards the Ethiopian border, we didn’t end up leaving Khartoum until lunchtime by the time we had all topped up on diesel etc.  We didn’t even make it half way when we decided to find a bush camp.  We pulled off the road and found a nice spot by the mountains.  Once the herders had passed with their goats and cattle we were left alone for the rest of the night.

25.01.08 - Didn’t set off as early as we should have, saw our first baboons on the side of the road, the temperature in the car was into the 40s and almost unbearable, so we stopped several times for drink breaks and to sit in the shade to cool off.  We decided we would not make it through customs in Ethiopia in daylight so thought we would drive leisurely to about 40km before the border and camp there.  Found a lovely spot right off the road sheltered by trees, had a nice shower in the pop-up tent then it was movie night, we all settled around to what Hot Fuzz.

26.01.08 - A man on a bicycle came to see us as we were getting up later followed by some army men all just wanting a chat.  Reached the Sudan border, went through immigration and customs fairly quickly, then we drove to Ethiopian immigration, this took much longer.  The border was very busy with people begging or trying to sell you something, the customs office here does not really do anything you just show your face and they are happy and send you to the customs office in Shehedi.  Straight away we noticed the change in the road and the change in the people, so it was a bone shaking 30km. By the time we reached customs it was lunchtime so we had to sit and wait in a café.  Once their lunch was finished they saw to our paperwork, they asked a couple of times for our carnets but as it is not required in this country and it is hard to get it stamped out we refused to give it to them, in the end they were happy not to have it and only asked as other people had given them theirs in the past, we knew we were in black Africa when the stamp women had to be called back from doing her washing,  we were finally able to leave at about 1.30pm.  Troy and I set off faster than the others; however the drive to Gonder was much longer and harder than we were led to believe, with major detours of about 30km at a time.  The road is not great and going through villages you have to drive very slowly so you do not hit any of the people or animals who wonder out in front of your car.  Up in the mountains we got rained on for the first time since Tunisia, however it was not enough to clean the car just make it even dirtier!  Finally we reached the Belegez Pension at about 6.30pm, we assumed the others were maybe an hour at the most behind us.  We had pizza and chips for tea and Troy got to have beer again.  The others didn’t arrive that night and by 8pm we realised they must have decided they would not make Gonder and stopped somewhere.  We settled down to watch Sherlock Holmes, although Troy only managed to see 10 mins as tired from the driving he fell asleep.     


Final thoughts - Loved the remoteness and the camaraderie created by it.  The Nubian people in the north, being especially friendly and welcoming. Enjoyed all the people that we had contact with, unfortunately not much to see there, but go there for the remoteness and the people.  It is our favourite country by far to date.