TUNISIA

29.11.07 - Wow Africa at last!  The ferry chugged in and we waited with anticipation.  Mixed emotions, between nerves and excitement, but I guess that is the whole point of this trip.  Customs was very authorative in an ‘allo allo’ sort of way, all very friendly even the police though still trying to look stern.  After getting through Immigration which was getting a form from one window, walking 10 feet and getting it stamped at another window then driving past both windows and handing to Traffic Police on way out.   First order of the day, find a hotel and get something to eat.  After driving round and round Tunis, we found a fantastically friendly person at the Hotel les National in old central Tunis.  Car park was full but after much debating and deliberation got to park inside the lockup garage as they moved another car into a different hotel parking for us.  The insistence and perseverance seems to pay off.  First Tunisian meal, soup with bits of bone in but absolutely gorgeous.  I had for the first time a fish that looked back at me the whole time I was eating it!!   

30.11.07 - Wasn’t sure if we were 1 or 2 hours ahead so worked on 2 and got down for breakfast before 7am (we then realised they are only 1 hour ahead).  Out the door and went to chase the illusive Libyan transit visa.  Grabbed taxi to Libyan Consulate, they said we needed Arabic translation of passport so off we went to the British Embassy where we got an official stamp but no translation, all they gave us was a list of translators in Tunisia (very helpful!).  Zigzagged Tunis from 4 different translators as none were in their office, we think that there is one translator that works at all offices, and we didn’t find him.  In the end found we found our own.  With translations of passport and application letter (you have to have a letter in Arabic explaining who you are, your passport number, your vehicle details and your route through Libya, which is the coastal road) we raced back to the Libyan Consulate only to be stuck in traffic as everyone was going to and coming out of prayer, wow manic!!  Finally got back 15 mins before closing only to be told it was the Libyan weekend and to come back on Sunday.  After that good news it was back to the Land Rover to escape the madness of the city, and head for the Hotel Les Jasmines in Nabeul where we are finally going to spend our first night in our roof tent.  Home sweet home!!

01.12.07 - Woke to clear skies and warm sunshine, much warmer than in Tunis.  Spent a lazy morning sorting through our gear, and then took a stroll into the town.  We ended up in a very large market where everyone was trying to get us to buy their goods.  We were made to look round one shop by a very friendly man who thought that Troy was ‘very hard man’ for not wanting to buy any of his china!!  Had a nice meal in the restaurant which we promised ourselves would be our last treat (although we have had several ‘last treats’ since we left England!!)

02.12.07 - Another lazy day, caught up on washing, and getting things in order.  Found an internet café but no wifi so could not update website, at this rate you will lucky to read this before we get home!!

03.12.07 - After a couple of days of unsuccessful phone calls to the Libya Consulate, we decided to drive back to Tunis to check on the state of our visas.   We arrived only to be told to call back tomorrow which is what we have been told everyday since Friday.  Thought we would head back down south again to have a look around while waiting for news on visas.  Thankfully found a campsite (Ideal Camping) with hot water as neither of us has been able to shower for past couple of days after experiencing our first cold shower at the other campsite.  (Even I have taken to dirt like a duck to water since that shower!!)  After hot shower we got civilised by putting our canopy tent up for first time, cooked spag boll with who knows what meat (it was mince of some kind!).  We are now contemplating our first night alone as the campsite is empty, which is a huge change from where we have just left (local drinking hole and popular with the pensioners in RV’s). 

04.12.07 - Were told and read that Sousse is one of the tourist area’s of Tunisia so thought it would be a good destination to go while we wait for news on our visas.  Drove down found the tourist office and was given a map with a campsite ringed on it.  Drove round for a while passing an English Pub and a few pale obviously English tourist but found no campsite.  In the end we realised the woman in the tourist office had totally misunderstood me as she had directed us to an athletic training centre.  We were given some confused looks when we drove in with our tent on roof!  Time was getting on and as it gets dark about 5pm we really had to find somewhere to stay, we drove in and out of towns finding no camping and finally decided to drive back to our first camp again to have a very last extravagant meal and well needed bottle of wine.

05.12.07 - Caught up on sleep with a nice lie in.  Tried ringing Libya consulate again just to be told tomorrow which I am starting to think is the only English word they know there.  Went to internet centre and finally managed to make contact with Emma through facebook (I take back everything I said about it, it has been a lifesaver).  Email still no good, we must have the only internet provider in the world with a name that is blocked in Tunisia, so cannot get to my web mail.  This really is a waiting game at the moment, we have itchy feet and really have an urge to move on, and who knows maybe tomorrow really will be the day!!!  Troy made a nice curry tonight, however the only yoghurt we had was strawberry, Troy assured me this would not taste when cooked.  I guess artificial flavouring does not break down in the cooking process, I really think strawberry curry will catch on!!

06.12.07 - Very boring day.  Realised yesterday that we had a tin of ham we accidentally brought with us, sneakily and sniggering we got it out and had ham sandwiches for breakfast.  We felt very naughty, tinned ham has never tasted so good!!  I also decided today to try my ‘pop up’ tent as was tired of struggling to change my clothes up in the roof tent.  Unzipped the case and for some reason the tent just sprang out on its own hitting me in the face as it went.  Set it up outside the back door of the land rover and changed, now time to put away.  Troy warned me that if I got it out I had to put it away.  20 minutes later I finally got it back in the bag just as Troy was starting to take pity on me, I think I will need to practise some more with it!!!    

07.12.07 - Decided today to try and find the tourist area, we had seen signs while driving around but could not remember how far away and in which direction.  Set off on foot turning left at the end of our road and walked for a couple of miles ending up out of Nabeul altogether, we did however find a ‘zone touristique’ sign which took us to a single resort.  Thinking this was it we walked the back way close to the beach to where we were staying only to find the Nabeul tourist area about a ¼ mile from where we were staying in the opposite direction to which we had walked.  It was however like a ghost town as everything was closed for the winter and repair work being carried out.  Did find a little bar open and went in for a well earned beer.  Next stop our daily trip to internet centre, found a site that gave us some hope with the Transit visa, a couple had managed to get theirs earlier this year, and it took about 10 days.  We are now working on this and will try gong back to Tunis on Monday.  Found out yesterday that you can pay to have a hot shower in one of the rooms in the hotel here, therefore me and my new fondness for dirt seems to have been just a passing phase!!

08.12.07 - Rain, rain rain, went to bed with rain, woke up with rain.  I think the day expressed our mood with just hanging around.  Took our daily walk into town for our usual Pininie and cake, we have been here so long our routine is just like if we were at home (except we are still a figure of interest when we walk down the street).  To lighten our mood we thought we would try the nearest restaurant; Troy is convinced the place we are staying is quite expensive to eat.  But when we got to the restaurant, we were told by some people also arriving that the chef was a ‘big chef’ which we took to mean Gordon Ramsey in an Arab skin.  Got inside and felt very underdressed, (so much for cheaper meal!).  Food was lovely but the steak we ordered came with bacon inside, maybe we weren’t so naughty with our ham after all!!  We were under the illusion Pork was banned here, thinking back tinned ham for breakfast was not that nice after all!!

09.12.07 - Spent morning cleaning and washing, and then went for a stroll onto the beach.  The weather today was much better back in to 20’s and sunshine most of the day.  We were still however the only ones walking round in t-shirts as it is obviously cold for the locals who were wearing coats and scarves, probably thinking we are mad!  Whilst walking through the ‘Clifton’ area of town we found a supermarket that we had not noticed before and thought didn’t exist in Nabeaul.  Unfortunately Troy only brought 20TD out with us, however we managed to get the important things like wine and beer! Although it did mean that we had no money left for our usual Pininie for lunch.  Troy made honey and mustard chicken for tea which I will say rivalled our meal by the ‘Gordon Ramsey’ last night.  Settling down to watch a DVD, we are hoping for some good news when we get to the Libya Consulate tomorrow. 

10.12.07 - Yippee with thanks to the wonderful Nicolette and Polly, today we finally got our Libya visas 10 days after putting in our request.  It shows that old proverb of tomorrow never comes isn’t always the case.  To anyone who wishes to apply for a transit visa, I would apply and wait a week at least, but expect 10 days before going back to see how the request is progressing.  The good news is you can get them!  You need 1 photo, fill out a green form and 31TD each.  The only hiccup with proceedings was when an official came out and eyed Troy suspiciously then asked him if his occupation was correct, for which Troy assured him it was, with another sideways look, he asked if he was sure, after Troy demonstrating plastering techniques he went off shaking his head in disbelief, obviously plasterers are the scum of the earth and so lowly that one could not possibly afford to travel!!  Celebrated with a trip to Carrefour, which seems to be a shopping mall as well as supermarket here, to re-stock on food and the much needed alcohol (jambon, jambon!!)  Headed back down south, with a view of reaching El Jem tomorrow.  Its funny what you see on the motorways here, we passed a small gas powered forklift, a donkey (we think the man was using the motorway as a shortcut to cross a dry riverbed) and a motorbike going the wrong way, but the best of all was the policeman with his speed camera and his walkie-talkie telling another policeman 500m down the road which cars to stop, this meant him running out into the fast lane to direct the driver onto the hard shoulder.  (Bet they get paid well!!)
        
11.12.07 - Left Ideal Camping, it was nice to know we were finally heading south towards Libya.  Called in to El Jem to see the coliseum, absolutely spectacular so much of it remains that you can climb on the different tiers, go onto the arena floor and even into the subterranean where the animals and prisoners were kept.  In with the price of entry (6TD each and 1TD for the camera), was entrance to the museum where a roman village has been reconstructed and the ruins of a roman town can be viewed.  All in all, well worth the visit.  Then back on our southward journey in the direction of Matmata.  Drove into the mountains late at night made for some very interesting driving, spot lights on full as we twist and turned and weaved our way into who knows where as it was so dark!  Made our first bush camp that night, following a dust track leading off the tiny mountain road we were on.  Everything was so black we had absolutely no idea where we were so we pulled over and had a rather uncomfortable night sleeping in the Land Rover, middle of the desert on a mountain, very cold!  Two people crammed on the back seat with one sleeping bag!!  

12.12.07 -   We awoke with the dawn and got out to see where we were, we found ourselves so remote we could have put up a circus tent let alone our roof tent and we would not have bothered anyone and they would not have bothered us!  It is amazing just how black the night can be with no moon and no light pollution, the stars are absolutely amazing.  Carried on our journey to Matmata finally getting there in a round about fashion, we really should have had a map (but where is the adventure in that!).  Done our impression of Luke and a quick tour round the Museum (unless you are a real die hard star wars fan, you might be a little disappointed).  Set off again to find an encampment (Ain Essbat) not far from Ksar Ghilane, our first real excursion into the desert 12km of driving not on a piste or a road of any sort, just tire tracks heading off, weaving their way through sand dunes.  Campsite was very nice, obviously a tourist mecca for the 4x4 tours as there were many different groups coming stopping for a drink and going again.  As we had got very little sleep the night before, we were in bed by 6.30pm.  The only interruption to a very quiet night was the midnight howling of a dog that barked for about 2 hours solid.

13.12.07 - With a yawn and a stretch and the discovery of how cold the desert does get, there was a light frost over the vehicle, it was out of the encampment onto a piste stretching 30km of heavy corrugation (not fun).  It is quite surprising how heavy on fuel off road driving is as the fuel gauge was sinking desperately low.  As we coasted on fumes the last 10km back into Matmata (lesson learnt) where we were assured we would be able to get some diesel off the mechanic.  One fleecing later (but we were desperate) chicken and chips in our belly we headed for the border.  As we made good time we decided to attack the border that afternoon.  We arrived at border about 4pm (which appears to be the border rush hour), got our passports stamped out and paid 1TD to get car stamped out.  Thankfully no one actually bothered to check whether we had had insurance.   Went to Libya border where we were greeted by a couple of very friendly faces and confusion as they weren’t sure what to do with our transit visas.  Everyone so far very helpful, they passed us onto a man who could speak English who took our passports said give him 5 mins and drove off with them, we sat wondering whether we had been very stupid.  But 5 mins later he was back with our passports stamped for entry, he directed us to the ATM, insurance office just outside the compound and the place to do our carnet and plates.  Then he was off but not before giving me a banana which I thought was very nice.  Off Troy went wondering, first to ATM to get money then off to insurance office, half way along was met by another man who asked to see his passport, Troy said ‘insurance’ to him he didn’t speak English but knew what he meant, and guided him through the whole process.  Insurance 5.515LD  for 7 days, then back to pick up the Libyan number plates at a cost of 115LD, 100LD of which you get back when you return them.  We left very pleased as both borders had only taken us 2 hours, drove 1km up the road when we were stopped and sent back, we think to have our computer stamped into our passport but are really not sure as the man didn’t speak English.  Chaos around the border, as queues to go into Tunisia were three lanes and 1km long.  All traffic was stopped so we could turn round then suddenly all cars were stopped from following us.  Got back to compound where we were flagged through and other cars made to move aside for us, when we actually got to meet the man he could not speak English and after trying to explain what he wanted he gave up and told us we could go again, speaking on his phone to tell the others ahead to let us pass this time.  Back on the road, traffic every bit a manic as Tunisia, we drove towards Sabratha where we are staying the night in a youth hostel.  Everyone we have met so far have been extremely friendly as we were told Libyan people are.  

Final Thoughts - Tunisia being our virgin African country we don’t feel we gave it a fair chance and looking back we see that we missed a great deal of the country and would like to go back there at some point.